Book chapter
The Dynamics of Dissipative Edge Waves
Coastal Dynamics '01, pp.263-272
2001
Handle:
https://hdl.handle.net/2376/109413
Abstract
We solve the equations governing forced, dissipative, shallow water edge waves on a planar beach. Dissipation introduces waves that progress obliquely across-shore, away from regions of forcing, carrying energy to surrounding regions of dissipation. We derive matching conditions so that arbitrary profiles of water depth and dissipation strength can be simulated by patching together planar beach solutions. Forcing outside the surf zone, combined with dissipation inversely-proportional to water depth, generates a mixture of standing and shoreward-progressive waves. Shoreward decay of propagating waves in the surf zone weakens or prevents the shoreward increase in wave amplitudes predicted for simple topographies by non-dissipative models. The oblique shoreward propagation, net shoreward energy flux, and cross-shore homogenisation of surf beat amplitudes predicted by the dissipative edge wave model are consistent with field observations and are not predicted by non-dissipative models.
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Details
- Title
- The Dynamics of Dissipative Edge Waves
- Creators
- A. J BowenStephen M Henderson
- Publication Details
- Coastal Dynamics '01, pp.263-272
- Academic Unit
- Environment, School of the (CAS)
- Identifiers
- 99900547475301842
- Language
- English
- Resource Type
- Book chapter